The Russian Tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii) is one of the hardiest tortoises. They are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures from 90F in the summer, to as low as 40F in the winter.
Enclosures:
In order to maintain Russian Tortoises correctly, they should have access to an outside enclosure or pen. Sited on a soil or grass base, the sides of the pen should be sunk into the ground to prevent the Tortoises from burrowing out. A wire mesh cover is normally employed to discourage the attentions of wild badgers and foxes etc. The enclosure must have an area where they can shelter from excessive wet and heat. aA good idea is to provide some alfalfa hay bedding, as this may help restrict their burrowing activities, by giving them something to dig into. The site area of the pen should be well drained, as Russian Tortoises should not be kept under prolonged damp conditions. During cold months it is important to move the Tortoises to an internal enclosure. A terrarium around 48" x 24” x 18" with a thermostatically controlled heat lamp at one end is normally the best solution. The temperature should be graduated from around 78F to 89F. Heatmats (we recommend Naturerep Reptotherm), can be used for heating the enclosure but not exclusively, only in conjunction with an overhead heat source. When using a heatmat for tortoises, never cover more than a quarter of the enclosure floor and control with a thermostat (eg: Microclimate). A good UV fluorescent tube is important for both physiological and psychological reasons (eg: Reptisun 5.0). With quarters that lack a good UVA source, tortoises tend to be less responsive to feeding. UV tubes should be replaced regularly, at least every 18 months. A premium quality chipped bark substrate should be used for the flooring such as Naturerep’s Jungle Terrarium Substrate. With both the internal and external enclosure, it is good practice to provide some enrichment. Cork bark sections, flattened wood branches, flat rocks etc., will give stimulus for your tortoise.
Feeding: Russian Tortoises are essentially vegetarian. Commonly, tortoise owners find it difficult to accept that their prize pet should be fed boring greens & grasses, and feel it necessary to give them a much broader diet with such delicacies as boiled egg, dog food, ham & cheese, toast, bananas and even faggots! DON’T!!!!! Feeding these high proteinfoodswill doyourtortoise harm.
Correct diet should include:
Dandelions (leaves & flowers)
Clover (leaves & flowers)
Grasses
Plantain
Romaine lettuce (do not feed iceberg & round lettuce)
Water/mustard cress
Carrot tops
Cabbages (dark green eg: Savoy, Green, Curly Kale, Spring Greens etc.)
To a small degree, around 10% of the total diet, the following can be fed:
Apple
Pear
Broccoli
Green Beans
Grated Carrot
Grated Squash
Plums
Do not feed Spinach. Or excessive quantities of legumes eg; peas & beans.
Feed every one to two days.
Supplementation: A good quality vitamin & mineral supplement should be dusted on the feed as per manufactures instructions. (We highly recommend Naturerep Vitarep).
Water should be available to your tortoise at all times in a shallow dish.
Hibernation: We recommend you do not hibernate your tortoise until at least it’s third year of age. Only hibernate strong, heavy healthy specimens. Do not feed for around two to three weeks before hibernation, as this will allow them to empty their gut prior to cooling. Russian Tortoises are best put into a polystyrene lined box filled with torn newspaper and gradually reduced in temperature until they are around 50-55F (never dropping to freezing!) If you have any doubts about the health of your tortoise and hibernation contact an experienced exotics veterinary surgeon.
Suggested Further reading: Popular Tortoises (P.De Vosjoli),
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